Riding the Washington State Ferries: A Guide
In our guide to riding the Washington State Ferries, you’ll learn how to navigate this slow, serene, and scenic way of getting around.
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There’s just something about traveling by boat. Not necessarily a cruise ship, but something more… ordinary. That’s not exactly the right word. The fleet of ferries plying the waters of Puget Sound in Washington State forms an impressive group. The smallest holds 64 vehicles and 748 passengers. The largest, more than 200 vehicles and 2,500 passengers. That’s hardly ordinary.
The Washington State Ferries provide everyday transportation to commuters, island residents, and tourists alike. It’s the largest ferry system in the United States and 2nd largest in the world. And in 2019, the system carried nearly 24 million people and more than 10 million vehicles.
Ferries are a Top Tourist Attraction
Seattle’s tourists flock to the ferries. It’s an inexpensive way to get a great view the city and surrounding mountain ranges, while enjoying a relaxing ride. The cost is just $9.05/round trip ($4.50 for seniors and kids).
If you’re just going for the ride, you should leave your car behind. Two ferry routes depart Downtown Seattle’s Colman Dock (Pier 52). The ferry terminal is a 15-minute walk from Pike Place Market, with a steep downhill to the waterfront. (Hint: there’s an elevator at the Market that can save you some steps).
The shorter trip goes to Bainbridge Island and lasts about 30 minutes each way. It is the busiest route in the system, with more than 6 million riders in 2019.
The longer route heads to Bremerton, home of the Puget Sound Naval Shipyard. Its naval heritage is on display at the Puget Sound Navy Museum and on the USS Turner Joy Museum Ship, both located near the ferry terminal in Downtown Bremerton.
Bainbridge Island or Bremerton?
If you have the time, my preferred ride is the ferry to Bremerton. You’ll get more views on the longer route, including passage through the scenic Sinclair Inlet, and more time on the ferry. That’s always a plus.
There’s a lot going on in Downtown Bremerton. Its historic core is in the middle of a renaissance with new apartments, historic building restorations, and more. Hop off the ferry to enjoy lunch, a craft brew, and some shopping.
There’s a nice little tourist scene going on Bainbridge Island, as well. Several shops and restaurants are located up the hill from the ferry landing, centered on Winslow Way. You’ll get more of a small town feel when you visit Bainbridge Island; and if you want a short break from the city, this may be your best choice.
TIP: Kitsap Transit operates a fast passenger ferry between Seattle and Bremerton. The ferry cuts the travel time in half and operates during the morning and afternoon commute.
The San Juan Islands Route
Put the San Juan Islands on your bucket list and thank me later. If you believe that getting there is half the fun, then you’ll love riding the Washington State Ferries through these beautiful islands. The journey itself is a true highlight of any trip to the San Juans. If only it took longer to get there….
Riding a ferry through the San Juan Islands will make it clear why the system is an integral part of the state highway system. These really are highways, and the ferry routes even have highway numbers. The ferries deliver supplies, people and vehicles. They stop at four of the most populated islands — Orcas, San Juan, Lopez and Shaw — and (until COVID-19 hit) continued on to Sidney, BC. Hopefully, that service will one day be restored.
How to Get Ferry Reservations
If you travel to the San Juan Islands, you should get a vehicle reservation before you arrive at the dock. Sailings are often full, and you don’t want to be left with a long wait at the dock.
Make reservations ONLINE or call (888) 808-7977. Phone lines are open every day from 7:00 AM to 5:30 PM (PT).
Understand that most routes in the system don’t take vehicle reservations, nor does the system accept passenger reservations. It’s first come, first served, but walk-on passengers will have no problem getting on board. There’s usually plenty of room.
Just two routes take vehicle reservations:
- Anacortes to/from Sidney, B.C. and the San Juan Islands (with exceptions below).
- Port Townsend to/from Coupeville/Whidbey Island.
Vehicle reservations are not available for travel between islands in the San Juans. So if you’re traveling between Lopez Island and Orcas Island, for example, you’ll board on a space available basis. Nor are reservations accepted for any travel departing Lopez or Shaw islands.
Just like airlines, the ferry system opens up future routes to reservations a certain amount of time in advance. But unlike airlines, the Washington State Ferries opens up its inventory in batches. It’s handy to know when that will happen, especially if the departure you want is showing no availability. I’ll set an alert on my phone for when it’s time to reserve space.
Anacortes-San Juans-Sidney Route
The Washington State Ferries releases inventory on this route in three phases:
- 30% is released 2 months before the upcoming season’s schedule begins.
- Another 30% is released 2 weeks before the sailing, at 7:00 AM (PT)
- A final 30% is released 2 days before the sailing, at 7:00 AM (PT)
NOTE: Due to Covid-19, the ferry system has been delaying its schedule release and the date in which bookings can begin. Check HERE for the latest.
The remaining inventory will be remain available for emergency vehicles and standby. If you go to the ferry terminal without a reservation, you’ll be put on standby.
Port Townsend-Coupeville Route
The Port Townsend-Coupeville run presents the ferry system’s biggest challenge. The tides and winds of winter have caused ferries on this route to run aground several times. To minimize that possibility, the system uses some of its smallest ferries on the route. Thus, the need for vehicle reservations.
The ferry system releases 80% of its inventory for the entire season at once, usually two months before the new schedule begins. But in 2020, Covid-19 has forced some changes (see note in above section).
The remaining 20% is reserved for emergency vehicles and standby passengers.
Get a reservation for this route at least a couple of days early, even further out if you’re planning travel on the weekend. Port Townsend and Whidbey Island (Coupeville) are both popular tourist spots. The ferry is also an extension of SR-20, one of the the major east-west highways across the state.
Reservation Costs
It costs nothing to make a reservation, and you can make unlimited free changes until 5:00 PM (PT) the day prior to your sailing. You can make a single change after that, if available.
Should you fail to show up on the day of your sailing, the ferry system will charge a “no show” fee. It’s $10 on the San Juan Islands route, and $8 on the Port Townsend-Coupeville route. You’ll need to leave a credit card on file to cover this fee, just in case.
One interesting point: It is not necessary to keep a specific reservation time to avoid the “No Show” fee. As long as you make any sailing on the same day, you won’t pay the fee. If you show up early or late, you’ll get put on standby. Of course, that defeats the purpose of your reservation. So if you can’t make the sailing you reserved, and it’s not too late, try to change the reservation.
When To Arrive at the Dock
For unreserved sailings, it’s not necessary to arrive far in advance. Drive safely, and you’ll get there when you get there. Walk-on passengers can board until just minutes before the ferry sails. Most routes have frequent sailings, and if you’re late for one sailing, you’re just early for the next. Personally, I think waiting for boat is part of the appeal of traveling by ferry. You’re taking the slow route, so embrace the wait. Get out of your car, breathe the salt air, and relax.
Reserved sailings require a bit more planning. Travelers need to be lined up or through the fare booth in advance:
- Port Townsend-Coupeville ferry: Arrive at the end of the line 30-45 minutes before sailing.
- Anacortes to the San Juan Islands: Vehicles must be checked in at least 30 minutes prior to the scheduled sailing. Get through the fare booth before then, and allow plenty of extra time in case there’s a line. The ferry system encourages people to arrive 45-60 minutes early.
- Anacortes to Sidney, BC: Arrive at least 60 minutes early.
- Sidney, BC to Anacortes: Arrive at least 90 minutes early, because passengers will go through U.S. immigration formalities here.
A Confusing Fare Payment Structure
There is nothing easy about the Washington State Ferries’ fare payment structure.
Most passenger fares are round-trip and collected in only one direction, usually westbound. Interisland trips through the San Juans are free.
Vehicle fares are for the car and driver (makes sense) and are collected one-way on all but two routes: Vashon Island and routes to the San Juans.
There are also two fare classes for cars: those under 14 feet long, and those 14-22 feet long. If you’re not confused by all this, give yourself a gold star.
Fortunately, the ferry system has a handy fare calculator to help you sort things out.
Pay with an Orca Card
Anyone who uses the Seattle area’s excellent public transit system should have an Orca Card in their wallet. The reloadable card costs $5 and can be used on public transit throughout the Puget Sound region. It can also help when you’re riding on the Washington State Ferries.
Users can load the card with cash (e-purse), any type of pass, and even some combination of both. I don’t live in the Seattle area, but I still keep an Orca Card for my regular visits to the region. It’s a handy payment method, and it’s the only way to get a free transfer between two buses.
The state ferry system does not accept the Orca Card at fare booths in the San Juans or in Sidney, British Columbia. Travelers and commuters can use the Orca Card everywhere else. The card has an auto-load feature that, when linked to a valid credit card, will replenish your funds as needed.
Orca Cards are available throughout the Puget Sound region — at retail locations, transit agency customer service centers, and at vending machines at transit stations and Park & Ride lots. They’ll also mail you a card.
Once you have a card, register it online and you can load cash or passes to it easily.
Wave2Go, Other Ways to Pay
Of course, all other standard forms of payment — cash, credit cards — are accepted. People can also buy ferry tickets online (except for the one international route) through the Wave2Go system.
Wave2Go offers monthly passes (passenger only), along with single- and multi-ride tickets. The Wave2Go system is handy for commuters who don’t also need an Orca Card. Walk-on passengers may benefit, as well, by avoiding a ticket line at the terminal. But anyone driving onto the ferry will need to wait in line at the fare booth regardless.
Onboard Amenities
When it comes to onboard amenities, let’s just say that riding the Washington State Ferries is its own reward. There really aren’t any. The ferries offer small cafeterias (currently closed to to Covid-19), a few vending machines, and little else.
That said, most routes are quite short. The Seattle-Bremerton route clocks in at about an hour, and it’s one of the longer routes in the system. Most of us don’t need many amenities for such a short trip.
In fact, the best amenity is a big window and a good seat to take in the view. If it’s warm outside, that’s an even better place to be. Most people head to the front of the boat. That’s the windy side! Even on the nicest day, you can get a bit chilly. My advice: go to the back of the boat. Less crowded, less wind, and still some great views.
Final Thoughts
I really enjoy riding the Washington State Ferries. During our frequent trips to see family in Seattle, we regularly hop on board. Sometimes we’re heading somewhere special, like a multi-day trip to the San Juan Islands. At other times, it’s just an excuse to take in the view and slow down. The ferry system serves tourists, industry, commuters and travelers. They are a famed Seattle attraction and an important part of the region’s transportation infrastructure. Ferries plying Elliott Bay rank among Seattle’s iconic images, right up there with the Space Needle.
If you’re in hurry, the ferry may not be your friend. During our recent trip to the San Juans, we learned that the ferries don’t always (or often) run on time. It appears that the management of the Washington State Ferries hasn’t built in some cushion to their schedules, which would allow them to better stick to a schedule. So the ferries have a bad habit of running late. And that’s fine. Because when you’re riding the Washington State Ferries, you’ve already committed yourself to slowing down.