Destination Report: Belize

The Central American nation has a laidback Caribbean vibe, lush jungles, great beaches and a signature cocktail

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My first trip to Belize was in 2009. I don’t remember why we decided on Belize initially, but the decision to go back repeatedly has been easy to explain. The small Central American nation is easy to fall in love with. It has a laidback Caribbean vibe, with virtually no chain hotels in sight. The country has great beaches, lush jungles, and friendly people. There’s no language barrier either. English is the official language, taught in schools and used in the media. A majority of Belizeans speak Kriol, an English-based creole language, and most everyone you meet will speak to you in English.

When Debby and I decided to get married, we couldn’t imagine a better place to tie the knot. During that first trip, we discovered our perfect spot on the Placencia Peninsula, in the southern part of the country. For a country that already feels relaxed, Placencia makes the rest of Belize seem almost bustling.

Lay of the Land

Before visiting Belize, you’ll need to decide what kind of trip you’ll be taking. If it’s a beach vacation, the country has beautiful beaches and a couple of cool islands, not to mention my beloved Placencia. If you want to experience the jungle, head west from Belize City and up to the Cayo District.

Cayo District: Stunning Ruins and Secluded Lodging

Cayo is the more adventurous side of Belize, where you can go on caving adventures and explore ancient Mayan ruins. You’re also within striking distance of a premier Mayan site: Tikal in Guatemala. It’s easy to arrange day trips across the border to this must-see piece of history and culture. The best accommodations in Cayo are secluded jungle lodges away from the main town of San Ignacio. These comfortable resorts are far enough from cell phone towers that you’ll find yourself talking to other guests. One of our favorite stays in Cayo was at Table Rock Jungle Lodge. It made for secluded and relaxed evenings after our days of adventure.

If you want the emphasis to be on relaxation, with adventure taking a back seat, you’ll have your choice of beach destinations. The most famous and upscale island in Belize is Ambergris Caye, rumored to be the inspiration for Madonna’s hit song La Isla Bonita. Ambergris is home to several luxury resorts, a fun little town called San Pedro, and nice beaches. It’s also the jumping off point to the famed Great Blue Hole, a marine sinkhole popular with scuba divers for its clear water and teeming marine life. Outfitters on Ambergris Caye can arrange full-day adventures. The Great Blue Hole is not for novice divers.

Caye Caulker: “Go Slow!”

Caye Caulker is next on my Belizean bucket list. It’s close to Ambergris Caye, and most boats between Belize City and Ambergris make a stop at Caye Caulker on the way. The island isn’t a beach destination, as there is really no beach to speak of. But if it’s a slow pace you’re looking for, embrace the island’s motto (“Go Slow”) and belly up to the bar. Kicking back a cold one and watching the sunset will be among the highlights of your day. The tourists on Caye Caulker tend to be younger and more budget-conscious than on Ambergris Caye, which is why many descriptions call it a backpacking destination.

Placencia: Great Beaches & The World’s Narrowest Street

Our favorite beaches are along the Placencia Peninsula, a destination that is the perfect mix of luxury and lowkey. Boasting the “world’s narrowest street,” as recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records, the town of Placencia is at the southern tip of the peninsula. And that street is actually a sidewalk, running more than 4000 feet past shops, eateries, bars, and fun street signs. A beautiful beach fronts the town, along with a few more bars like the Tipsy Tuna. It’s as good an excuse as any to take a break and sit on the beach with a cold bottle of Belikin, the ubiquitous beer of the country.

The Placencia Peninsula is lined with hotels and resorts, from the rustic to the luxurious. The peninsula is currently in a growth phase, and that means new luxury accommodations continue to sprout up. One of those is Itz’ana Resort and Residences in Seine Bight, at about the midpoint of the peninsula’s stretch of accommodations. Its central location makes for an easy drive into Placencia, or further north to the excellent Maya Beach Bistro. Get the Cocoa Pork and thank me later.  

The Undiscovered Side of Belize

Further south from Placencia lies the Toledo District, anchored by the town of Punta Gorda. Tourism is still in its infancy down here, but there are plenty of reasons to visit its jungles. Cacao is grown here, making it the center of a small chocolate industry. One of the highlights of our Belize travels was to visit a cacao farm and see the process of turning beans into pure deliciousness.

Best of Belize

• Belize is a small country, both in geography and population. Like a lot of smaller cities, you’re constantly running into people who know someone else you’ve met. I love this familiarity and think of the theme from Cheers: “You want to go where everybody knows your name.” Belize is that kind of country. It’s familiar and friendly.
• Unless you visit the Belize Zoo (a must-see!), you probably won’t see a jaguar in Belize. But rest assured, there’s a healthy population of the “largest and most powerful cat in the Western Hemisphere.” These mostly solitary animals are protected from hunting in Belize and primarily live in lowland forests.
• Most travelers fly into Belize City and head straight out at their first opportunity. Don’t do that. Belize City is no longer the nation’s capital – due to hurricanes, the government moved up to Belmopan during the 60s — but the gritty city remains the beating heart of its culture. The Swing Bridge crosses Haulover Creek, and is the one of the only manually operated bridges of its type on the planet. You’ll find most activity close by, including a meal with rice and beans at Dit’s. Warning: Some parts of Belize City, primarily on the south side, are dangerous and should be avoided.
• Discover the Mayan world on your trip to Belize. The nation has several archeological sites, including Caracol – the largest Mayan city in the region. It’s a thrill to explore these ancient cities, and humbling to see how advanced Mayan civilization was at that time. Likewise, outfitters can arrange your day trip to Tikal, in Guatemala.
• The Hummingbird Highway is another good reason to drive (not fly) to Placencia and Southern Belize. It’s one of the most scenic drives in the country. It’s not far from Belmopan to Dangriga – less than 90 minutes straight through – so take your time and make a couple of stops along the way. Blue Hole National Park (not to be confused with the diving spot) is a sinkhole where you can take a refreshing dip. St. Herman’s Cave is here, as well.
• Speaking of caves, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to take an excellent caving expedition in the Cayo District. The most famous is Actun Tunichil Muknal, which is usually simply called the ATM cave. It’s the most strenuous of the caving expeditions, so be ready to get wet and muddy. If you want something easier, try Barton Creek Cave.

Food and Drink

• The staple of Belize cooking is rice and beans, and you’ll get it regularly with your meals. It’s a mound of red beans and rice cooked in coconut milk, often accompanied by stew chicken or beef, fry chicken, or fish.
• Fry jacks, basically deep-fried dough, are a staple of the breakfast table. A typical breakfast will also include refried beans, eggs, cheese, fresh fruit, and a breakfast meat such as bacon or ham.
• Everywhere in Belize is close to the sea, and you’ll find excellent seafood dishes throughout the country. The best ceviche I’ve ever had is in Belize – conch ceviche, yum! – and I’ve had it several times. Conch fritters and conch stew are also common, and tasty. (For the uninitiated, conch is pronounced ‘kawnk’).
• You can visit the small Marie Sharp’s factory on your way down to Placencia, or buy Marie Sharp’s Habanero Pepper Sauce at stores throughout the country. Marie Sharp started her business in 1981 and makes several awesome hot sauces, along with jams, seasonings, and juices. I use Marie Sharp’s on anytime I need to add some heat and keep a big bottle of it in my home kitchen.
• I haven’t yet mustered the courage to try a seaweed shake, but it’s a thing in Belize and I’m determined to try one soon. They’re apparently delicious and don’t taste like seaweed – what would seaweed taste like anyway? You get a white, frothy beverage topped with nutmeg and cinnamon.
• For alcoholic drinks, the most ubiquitous beer is Belikin. It’s not bad for the beach, and you don’t have all that many choices anyway. When you order a beer, it will be served with a napkin. You should use that to wipe down the bottle before putting your mouth on it. Other beers include a made-in-Belize Guiness, Belikin Stout, and the “light beer” Lighthouse Lager. Belikin makes all of these brands; the company has a near monopoly on beer in the country. There is no craft beer scene, but a few foreign beers are starting to make inroads.
• Finally, we’ve got to mention the signature cocktail in Belize, the Panty Ripper. It’s a sweet drink primarily made from pineapple juice and coconut rum, and it was literally the first drink suggested to us when we arrived in Belize in 2009. Sure! Don’t feel awkward ordering it at a bar. I promise, the Panty Ripper is quite common and a good drink for the beach or poolside.

Getting There

Most travelers arrive at Philip S.W. Goldson International Airport (BZE) in Ladyville, just outside Belize City. From the United States, most major airlines offer regular daily service – American, Delta, United, and most recently Southwest. Both Air Canada and Westjet offer seasonal services from Canada. Another option is to fly into Cancun International Airport (CUN) and take a 300-mile drive (6.5 hours) south to Belize City.

Alternate: Fly to Cancun and Drive to Belize

You’re likely to find a less expensive flight to CUN, but keep in mind that you’ll need to find a car rental agency in Cancun that will let you drive their vehicle across the international border. America Car Rental is one such company; and if you want to go this route, the blog At Home On the Go spells out the process and costs, including a surprising fumigation fee when you cross into Belize. Alternatively, you can take a Mexican bus to the border.

Getting Around

The AvGeek in me would love to hop on a Belizean airline and fly to my domestic destination, but I’ve yet to do it. Flights are relatively expensive and distances not that far, so it’s hard for me to justify the added cost. If you choose to fly, Tropic Air and Maya Island Air are the two carriers serving domestic destinations within Belize. Both fly lightweight aircraft, such as the Cessna 208 Caravan, and both have good safety records.

Why You Should Rent a Car

My recommendation is to rent a car. The roads are mostly quiet, but there are a few dangers: people and animals in the road, potholes, and a constant barrage of speed tables. We even count speed tables on the Placencia Peninsula to mark distances.

Rental Companies

Most of the major car rental companies operate at BZE, or you can rent from a local company. Much to my amusement, I have a car guy in Belize. Someone (I don’t remember who) gave me Hugo’s name in 2009 and he took care of everything. I still don’t know which company rented me the car, a rickety Kia Sportage that felt like it needed pedals when going uphill.

Two years later, we called Hugo again (I keep his number in my phone); and once again, he took care of everything — including transportation from the water taxi in Belize City out to the airport. This time, I paid attention to the name of the company: Crystal Auto Rental. Five years later, Hugo wasn’t doing the car rental thing anymore, but he gave me the name of his former boss. So now we call him when we need to rent.

What You’ll Drive

When you rent a car in Belize, you’re unlikely to get a new vehicle. The cars are older and often brands you’ve never heard of, such as the Chinese-made Great Wall diesel we drove on our most recent trip. Prices are a bit more expensive than what you’d typically pay in the United States, too, but not exorbitant. The trip out to Cayo is about two hours, three hours down to Placencia.

Take the Water Taxi Out to the Cayes

If you ‘re heading out to Caye Caulker or Ambergris Caye, you have the choice to fly or take a water taxi from Belize City. The fun, and far less expensive choice, is the water taxi. Several companies ply the waters between Belize City and Ambergris Caye, stopping at Caye Caulker in both directions. A trip on Belize Express takes 90 minutes to reach San Pedro on Ambergris Caye and costs $50 USD round-trip. Taxicabs from BZE to the water taxi dock will cost $25 USD.

Getting Around Ambergris Caye

If you stay in a resort north of town, such as Las Terrazas Resort and Residences, one of the most charming ways to get around is by water taxi.  Coastal Xpress operates regular scheduled service. They’ll take you and your bags right to the dock outside your hotel. If that’s all you need, just buy a round trip ticket. But if you plan to use the service a bit more – maybe to take a trip to a dockside watering hole – then you can buy a weekly pass. At night, the boat captain will need to see you if you want a ride. But there are lights at the end of the dock. Turn on the appropriate light, depending on which direction you’re heading, and the next boat will pick you up. Check the schedule, because it can be a long time between boats.

Golf carts are another popular mode of transportation on Ambergris Caye. Several golf cart rental businesses operate, with hourly, daily, weekly and monthly rates. Road Runner quotes a price of $141.75 BZ ($72USD) for a day, with discounts the longer you rent.

The Bus: Travel Like A Local

Belize has several local bus companies plying routes throughout the country. Some are nicer than others, but don’t be surprised to find yourself on an old American school bus with no air conditioning.

The bus services are generally cheap and efficient, and they’ll pick you up and drop you off anywhere. The drawback to this flexibility is that buses make a lot of stops, which can slow down your trip. But travel by bus is always a great way to meet locals and get a more authentic experience. Plus, it’s nice to save money. If you have the time and inclination, Belmopan Online tries to keep the bus schedules up to date. Arrive early for your bus! Most bus lines do not sell advance tickets. Typically, you’ll hop on the bus and the conductor will collect your fare after departure. Longer stops are common in cities, so it’s a good time to take a break and stretch your legs.

Money

The currency in Belize in the Belize Dollar (BZD). It’s officially pegged to the US Dollar at a rate of 2:1. Thus, $100 BZD = $50 USD. This can be confusing, because nearly every business catering to tourists will give you prices in U.S. dollars. Every business catering to locals will use Belize dollars. We have always been able to use either, but there are plenty of ATMs about. Most tourist-centered businesses accept credit cards, but it’s worthwhile to have extra cash on hand.

Final Thoughts

Belize has become one of our favorite places. It’s comfortable and friendly, and we’ve had a few interesting experiences. Like our wedding in 2011. While I went down to Placencia Town, my wife shared a cab with Willie Roaf, a legend with the New Orleans Saints and a member of the Pro Football Hall of Fame. A couple of days earlier, our wedding planner couldn’t come out to plan the photo shoot. Her photographer explained: “She’s giving a massage to the drummer for the Grateful Dead.” This is the stuff that happens in Belize, and why we love it so.  

Belize packs a lot into a small place. It’s a nation of diverse landscapes and diverse cultures. A place to relax for days, followed by days of nonstop adventure. And it’s only a short flight away.